Lash Lift Protocol

Rod and shield selection guide

Choosing the correct rod or shield is the most important decision in a lash lift service. Use this table as a quick reference, then read the notes for each style.

Basic

The basic rod flatters most eye shapes and is your safe default when you are unsure. It gives more curl with less lift, suits fine to medium lashes, and balances lashes that point in several directions or curl unevenly.

Round

The round rod flatters larger eyes and gives more curl with less lift for a natural result. It is ideal for medium to thick lashes and for downturned lashes that need extra coaxing to curl.

Hybrid

The hybrid rod flatters deep set and hooded eyes. It curls first and then lifts, bringing lashes out before pulling them up, which keeps them from curling back into the crease where they disappear. It opens the eye for clients with smaller or hooded eye shapes.

Small teardrop

The small teardrop gives lift with little to no curl, so the tips stay straighter. It is ideal for short or fine lashes and for naturally curly lashes that only need lift, and its thinner base anchors well to fine or short lashes.

Large teardrop

The large teardrop also gives lift with little to no curl. It suits medium to long or thicker lashes and naturally curly lashes that only need lift, and its thicker base gives a secure anchor for longer lashes.

Every pro develops preferences over time. Try a few rod brands and styles side by side to find what works with your technique and your clients. The right rod is the one that gives you clean, predictable results again and again.

Choosing your rods and lash lift glue

There is no single right brand for rods or adhesive. What matters is knowing what to look for, so you can build a kit that works for your hands, your pace, and your clients.

Choosing your rods

• Start with the rod styles you use most, then test two or three brands in those styles side by side.
• When you test a rod, notice how well it grips the lash, whether it holds its place against the lash line, whether it flexes or feels stiff, and whether the base suits the lash type you are working with.
• Some rods are naturally tacky and need little or no glue, which can speed up your service and leave less barrier between the solution and the lash. Others are smoother and work best with a thin layer of adhesive. Neither approach is wrong.
• Watch how the rod behaves when you brush lashes onto it for Step 2. A rod that shifts easily can flip the lid, while a rod with good grip stays put.
• Once a rod gives you consistent results, stick with it, because consistent tools give consistent outcomes.

Choosing your lash lift glue

• Lash lift adhesive ranges from thin and runny to thick and gel like, and each has tradeoffs.
• Thinner glues give you more working time and spread evenly, but they may hold lashes less quickly, which makes them a good fit for beginners and detailed work.
• Thicker, tackier glues grip fast and hold firmly, but they are harder to control and can create a thick barrier if you use too much.
• Less is always more. A thin, even layer is all you need, because excess glue keeps the solution from fully reaching the lash.
• Choose a glue that dries clear or nearly clear so you can see lash placement during Step 2.
• Test a new adhesive on a slow day or on a practice model first, since some glues behave differently with certain rod materials.

Regular lash lift and Korean lash lift: what is the difference?

A regular lash lift processes part of the lash to add curl or lift, while a Korean lash lift processes the entire lash and then sets it in the shape you choose. The Just The Strip system is used as a Korean style lift.

Step 1 application methods

There are two ways to apply Step 1 Cream. Both work, so choose based on the client and your comfort level.

Flat shield method (recommended)

• Apply a layer of Step 1 to the flat shield, then coax the lashes up onto it so they are sandwiched between layers of solution.
• Hold the lashes flat with silicone guards or plastic wrap while they process.
• Check at five minutes and brush as needed. The lashes relax and flatten gradually, much like brow hairs soften during a lamination.
• This method keeps solution away from the eye, which lowers the chance of irritation.
• Try a few flat shield brands, since some have more natural tack than others and need less glue.

Brushed down method

• Apply Step 1 directly to the lashes while they point downward.
• Hold them flat with silicone guards or plastic wrap. Reusable silicone under eye pads work well here and can be sanitized between clients.
• The solution sits closer to the eye with this method, so weigh it carefully against the client's sensitivity.

How long do you process Step 1 for a lash lift?

Just The Strip Step 1 Cream processes for 10 to 15 minutes. Step 1 softens the lash, so perfect separation is not needed yet. These are basic starting times, and every client is different, so watch the lashes and adjust to what you see.

• At five minutes, remove the guard or wrap and brush the lashes to the side. If they stay, processing is on track. If they bounce back, they need more time.
• Also at five minutes, remove the solution from the tips of the lashes to avoid overprocessing them.
• Test again around the 10 minute mark.
• Remove all of Step 1 completely before you move on to Step 2.

Step 2: setting the shape

Whatever position the lashes are in while Step 2 processes is the shape they will keep, so precision here defines the final result.

• Place the rod or shield so it touches the lash line, close to the lashes but not sitting on top of them.
• A gap between the rod and the lash line lets the lashes lie flat, which gives a weak lift.
• A rod sitting on the lashes creates a crimp, which leaves lashes angular or pointing down before the lift begins.
• Make sure the lashes are smooth, even, and fully separated on the rod before you apply Step 2.
• Hold the rod in place while you gently brush the lashes up, since brushing without holding can flip the lid and leave lashes flat.
• Process Step 2 over the entire lash for the same amount of time as Step 1.
• Test by lifting a few lashes off the rod to confirm they hold the shape.
• Remove all of Step 2 completely before you continue.

Because a Korean lift processes the whole lash, always size up on rods rather than down. A slightly larger rod gives a more natural result than one that is too small.

Step by step lash lift protocol

1. Cleanse the lashes thoroughly. Remove all makeup, oil, and residue, because the solution cannot penetrate through buildup.
2. Choose the rod size and style. Use the selection guide above, and when in doubt, size up.
3. Secure the bottom lashes with lash pads or tape.
4. Apply Step 1 Cream with the flat shield or brushed down method, and hold the lashes flat with silicone guards or plastic wrap.
5. Check at five minutes. Brush the lashes to test them, remove solution from the tips, rewrap, and keep processing. Check again at about 10 minutes.
6. Remove all of Step 1.
7. Adhere the lashes to the rod or shield with a thin layer of glue, and make sure they are smooth, even, and fully separated.
8. Apply Step 2 Cream over the entire lash for the same time as Step 1, held in place with silicone guards or plastic wrap. Test a few lashes to confirm they hold.
9. Remove all of Step 2.
10. Tint if you like. Free the bottom lashes from under the eye pads first. Mix a pea sized amount of tint with one drop of developer right before use, since tint starts developing the moment it is mixed. Apply to the bottom lashes first, then the top lashes, process for six minutes, and remove from the top lashes first, then the bottom.
11. Remove the rods, shields, and eye pads gently. Avoid rinsing the eye area unless you need to, and if you do, dry the lashes right away with saline.
12. Apply Keratin Booster through the lashes to condition them.
13. Have the client open their eyes and confirm there is no sensitivity.
14. Review the results together and send the client home with aftercare instructions and Lash Lift Aftercare Cards.

Lash lift aftercare instructions for your clients

Aftercare for a Korean lash lift is the same as for a standard lift. Share these steps with every client at checkout, and take a moment to explain why each one matters, since clients who understand the reason are far more likely to follow through.

• No water, steam, or humidity for the first 24 hours, because the lash is still setting.
• No waterproof mascara, since the rubbing it takes to remove it can wear down the lift early.
• No sleeping on or pressing the lashes for the first 24 hours.
• After 24 to 48 hours, condition the lashes every night with a nourishing lash oil. This is the most important thing a client can do to keep their lashes soft, flexible, and looking their best between appointments.

Results typically last 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the client's natural lash cycle and how consistently they follow their aftercare.

Retail recommendation: Lash Conditioning Oil

A lash lift is gentle, but it still puts the lash through a chemical change, so daily conditioning afterward matters. Lash Conditioning Oil is made to nourish, hydrate, and soften lifted lashes, helping them stay soft and supple between appointments. It is also your chance to set every client up for success and add retail to every ticket.

• Present it as part of the service rather than an add on: "I am sending you home with the lash oil we recommend. Starting in a day or two, sweep one coat along your lashes before bed."
• Keep a bottle at your station so clients can see it and ask about it before you bring it up.
• Stock it at half of retail in the Lash Conditioning Oil 3 Pack.

Lash lift troubleshooting

Lashes are overcurled

• Choose a rod style you would normally consider too large for the client, which relaxes the curl.
• Process Step 1 and Step 2 for about five minutes each.
• If the client was tinted, tint for one minute only, since the solution strips some color and a shorter tint keeps it from fading further.

Lashes are undercurled

• Confirm the correct rod size and style, and swap if needed.
• Process Step 1 and Step 2 for about five minutes each.
• If the client was tinted, tint for one minute only.

The lift was disappointing: a checklist

• Were the lashes cleansed thoroughly? Leftover oil or product keeps the solution from penetrating.
• Was Step 1 left on long enough? Lashes that bounce back were not fully processed.
• Was the rod the right size and style? Sizing up is safer than sizing down for a Korean lift.
• Was the rod placed correctly? Any gap between the rod and the lash line gives a flat result.
• Were the lashes smooth and separated on the rod during Step 2? They set in whatever position they were in.

Frequently asked questions about this lash lift protocol