Written by Tawnya Fornerod, licensed esthetician and founder of Just The Strip, with almost 25 years in the beauty industry and multiple waxing studios of her own.
The short answer: Razor bumps are small, red, often itchy bumps that form when shaved hairs curl back into the skin or grow sideways under it as they regrow. They are most common on the bikini line, underarms, legs, and the beard and neck, especially where hair is coarse or curly. To calm razor bumps, stop shaving the area for a few days, wash it with a gentle, pH balanced cleanser, and apply an ingrown hair serum once a day. To help prevent the next ones, shave with the grain using a sharp blade, exfoliate two or three times a week, and keep using your serum and a light oil between shaves.
What causes razor bumps?
Shaving cuts each hair at an angle right at the surface of the skin, which leaves a sharp tip. As the hair grows back, that sharp tip can curve back and pierce the skin, or it can start growing sideways before it ever breaks through. The skin reacts to the trapped hair with redness, swelling, and a raised bump. Dermatologists call this pseudofolliculitis barbae, and although the name comes from the beard, the same thing happens anywhere you shave.
A few things make razor bumps more likely: coarse or curly hair, shaving against the direction of growth, a dull or clogged blade, pulling the skin tight while you shave, shaving dry skin, and dead skin building up over the follicle. Tight clothing and friction on the bikini line and inner thighs can make it worse.
Are razor bumps the same as razor burn or ingrown hairs?
They are related, but they are not quite the same thing. Razor burn is surface irritation that appears within minutes to hours of shaving as a stinging, red rash, and it usually fades within a day or two. Razor bumps appear a day or more after shaving, as the hairs start growing back, and they look like individual raised bumps rather than a flat rash. An ingrown hair is the cause behind most razor bumps, a single hair trapped under the skin, so you can think of razor bumps as clusters of ingrown hairs that were set off by shaving.
How do you get rid of razor bumps?
Most razor bumps settle on their own once the trapped hairs work free, and a gentle routine helps them calm down faster and keeps new ones from forming.
- Give the area a break from the razor. Shaving over existing bumps irritates them and cuts new hairs at an angle, which keeps the cycle going. Skip shaving the area for a few days if you can.
- Cleanse with something gentle. A pH balanced, fragrance free wash like Simply Pure Body Wash keeps the follicles clean without the sting of a scented soap.
- Apply an ingrown hair serum once a day. Smooth Operator Ingrown Hair Serum combines salicylic acid, which reaches into the follicle to clear it, with glycolic and lactic acids that smooth the surface so the hair can grow through cleanly. If your skin is sensitive or you are pregnant or nursing, Truth Serum is our acid free option built on witch hazel and botanicals.
- Soothe and hydrate. Once the serum dries, a few drops of Nourishing Oil hydrate the skin and support the barrier. A cool compress can also calm heat and redness.
- Leave them alone. Do not pick, squeeze, or dig at razor bumps. That breaks the skin and can lead to infection or marks that last much longer than the bumps would have.
If razor bumps become very painful, fill with pus, spread, or come with a fever, see your doctor or a dermatologist. Those are signs of infection that need medical care.
How do you help prevent razor bumps?
Prevention comes down to a smarter shave and a consistent routine between shaves.
Prepare the skin. Shave at the end of your shower, after warm water has softened the hair for a few minutes. Use a gentle cleanser first so the blade glides over clean skin.
Shave with the grain. Shave in the direction your hair grows, use light pressure, and avoid pulling the skin tight. Going over the same spot again and again, or shaving against the grain for a closer result, is one of the biggest causes of razor bumps.
Use a sharp, clean blade. Rinse the razor after every stroke and replace the blade every five to seven shaves, or sooner if it tugs. Single or double blade razors are often gentler on bump prone skin than razors with many blades, because they cut the hair less closely below the surface.
Treat the skin right after you shave. Apply your ingrown hair serum to clean, dry skin, let it dry, and follow with a few drops of oil. Keep up the serum once a day between shaves.
Exfoliate two or three times a week. Dead skin that builds up over the follicle is one of the main reasons hair curls back under the surface. A Silicone Cactus Scrubber, Exfoliating Gloves, or a Sugar Body Scrub on the body keeps the surface clear. On the days you use an acid serum like Smooth Operator, skip other chemical exfoliants on the same area.
What helps razor bumps on the bikini line?
The bikini line is the most common place for razor bumps because the hair is coarse and curly and clothing presses on the area all day. Everything above applies, with two extra habits that help the most: wear loose, breathable cotton underwear for a day after you shave, and use a small silicone scrubber made for the bikini line so you can exfoliate gently without irritating thin skin. Many clients who fight constant bikini line razor bumps find that switching to waxing helps, because waxing removes the hair from the root instead of leaving a sharp cut tip at the surface. If you make the switch, keep the same serum and exfoliation routine between appointments. Our guide to ingrown hairs after a bikini wax walks through that routine step by step.
What helps razor bumps on the beard and neck?
Beard and neck razor bumps are especially common for anyone with coarse or curly facial hair. Shave with the grain, avoid stretching the skin, and consider leaving a little stubble rather than shaving as close as possible. After shaving, apply your serum to the beard and neck area, keeping it away from the eyes, then a couple of drops of oil. Smooth Operator is used on the beard, neck, and jawline, and Truth Serum is the gentler choice, with no added fragrance, if your facial skin is sensitive. A few drops of Nourishing Oil also soften beard hair and the skin underneath it.
Frequently asked questions about razor bumps
How long do razor bumps last?
Most razor bumps calm down within a few days to a week once you stop shaving the area and start a gentle routine. Bumps caused by a deeply trapped hair can take longer, and any bump that is painful, swollen, or filled with pus should be checked by a doctor.
What is the fastest way to calm razor bumps?
Stop shaving the area for a few days, cleanse with a gentle pH balanced wash, apply an ingrown hair serum once a day, and use a cool compress for redness. Avoid picking or squeezing the bumps, which slows everything down.
Should I shave over razor bumps?
Try not to. Shaving over razor bumps irritates them and cuts new hairs at a sharp angle, which can create more bumps. Give the skin a few days to settle before you shave again.
Does an ingrown hair serum help with razor bumps?
Yes. Razor bumps are mostly ingrown hairs set off by shaving, so a daily ingrown hair serum that keeps the follicle clear and the surface smooth helps the trapped hairs grow through and helps prevent new bumps from forming.
Is waxing better than shaving for razor bumps?
For many people, yes. Waxing removes the hair from the root, so there is no sharp cut tip at the surface to curl back into the skin. Ingrown hairs can still happen as waxed hair grows back, so keep using your serum and exfoliate two or three times a week, starting 24 to 48 hours after your wax.
Can I use Smooth Operator on razor bumps if I am pregnant?
No. Smooth Operator contains salicylic acid, so please choose Truth Serum, our acid free serum and the one we recommend during pregnancy and nursing. Check with your doctor if you have specific concerns.
